It’s logical to kick off with pilchards. They’re probably the most effective and easily used snapper bait, day-in, day-out, as well as being readily available and reasonably cheap to buy. By presenting them in a variety of ways and on different rigs, it’s possible to make them more appealing to specific sizes of snapper. This means that an angler can gear up or down to catch the size of fish that the bait is likely to attract (although with fishing being such an imprecise science, there will always be the odd exception).

In all cases, do not start your fishing day by thawing your pilchards out! Those rock-hard, frozen pilchards might make baiting up a little more difficult, but they also resist bites better and aren’t so prone to falling off the hook. Personally, I endeavour to have just the edge taken off them so they’re what I like to term ‘crispy frozen’. This is achieved by taking just a dozen or so pilchards out of the chilly bin at one time, especially during the summer. Keep in mind, too, that free-flow pilchards are a better product than those frozen in a solid block. The difference in quality is particularly apparent when the two types are thawed, as the block baits turn to soft mush while the free flow pillie remains quite firm.

Frozen pilchards are available in a variety of sizes but as a rule, most of the pilchards from Australia tend to be small to mid-size, while New Zealand and Japanese ones tend to be much bigger. The various pillie bait recipes that follow pertain to Aussie pillies (ie small to mid-size) unless otherwise stipulated.

Half Pillie ‘Bites’

I always thought that those who used half pilchards were miserly and targeting pan-size or undersized fish. Now I know different. It seems that a half fish releases juices and oils more readily and when placed on a single hook they are nicely ‘bite-size’, encouraging a quick grab and run.

On occasion they can be more effective than a whole bait, especially when the predominant fish in the area are in the 1 to 3.5kg bracket. Both halves of the pilchard can be effectively utilised and by cutting the pilchard across on a 60° angle, there is more bait length for hooks and traces to be sewn or half-hitched around. This makes the bait stay on better through casts and bites. For those with the inclination (or very soft pilchards), the use of cotton or Bait Elasticised Roes an excellent job… but I prefer to keep things straight forward and my bait in the water. Tying up the baits with cotton and then removing all the strands later, takes up a lot time in a fishing day.

Half pillie baits are mostly used in conjunction with a single hook in a 4/0 or 5/0 size, the style or brand being determined by the function and situation. The most popular time for using half pilchards is when fishing relatively shallow ‘small’ snapper spots (1-3kg fish) with light tackle (3-6kg). Excellent results are achieved by placing one or two small, pea-sized sinkers directly on top of a slim diameter, chemically sharpened ‘beak’ type hook. The sinker position provides the angler with direct contact with the bait, enabling good bite detection as well as the ability to set the hook with minimal pressure. Good examples of these hooks can be found in the Gamakatsu, Wasabi, Owner and Mustad ranges.

An alternative, for those who like to kick back, is to use ‘Kahle’ type hooks instead and leave the rod in the rod holder. The small bait is easily swallowed and the snapper takes all the slack and stretch out of the line with its own momentum. The power of the rod slowly comes on and the fish is hooked in the mouth. Actively striking when using such hooks will decrease your success rate. Kahle shaped hooks are widespread throughout the various brands, and must include the differently shaped KL series from Black Magic.

Half pillies work on ledger rigs, too, from the boat or shore. Although some anglers use beak hooks, Kahle hooks are generally preferred, particularly if the reels are being left in gear. This set-up is perfect for high current situations or in order to allow long casts (as the baits are small and streamlined), especially when targeting school snapper to 4kg.

Whole Pillie (au naturale)

A single whole pilchard is the most common way to fish for snapper and everyone has a different way of doing it. The following methods work for me, but very different techniques are used by my fishing buddies and they often do just as well.

When using a pilchard, the first decision is whether you will use: a two hook rig with sliding ‘keeper’ ; a fixed two hook rig; or a single hook. (Keep in mind that if you wish to conform to IGFA specifications, you cannot have a hook that slides up and down the trace – it must be permanently attached to the line).

Two Hook Rig with Sliding Keeper

For your run-of-the-mill snapper fishing, most prefer a two hook rig with sliding ‘keeper’ , the reasons being that a high hook-up rate is achieved and it’s quickly and easily made up. (As an aside, the reason for the quotation marks on the word ‘keeper’ is because although the term is still popularly used, the role has changed. Instead of this hook being much smaller than the ‘main’ hook and used as a means to ‘keep’ the bait in place, the keeper has evolved to become a second hook that is just as likely to hook the fish as the main. N.B. Small keeper hooks do catch fish but are far more likely to bend or break).

For line weights of 4 to 6kg, a 5/0 main hook is complimented by a 4/0 or 5/0 keeper, and for lines over that, a 6/0 main is combined with a 6/0 or 5/0 keeper. These sizes have been determined by the size of the pilchard and the amount of line pressure they may have to take. Although there are some excellent snapper fishers around who use much bigger hooks, and do well, I prefer my hooks to remain hard to see, so they’re less likely to be felt and are easier to set into hard mouths.

When using a double hook rig with sliding keeper, it seems logical to attach the pilchard by going from the tail to the head as the tail is a nice anchorage point for half hitches and presents the fish headfirst for easy gobbling (not that it really matters with snapper – they’ll eat a pilchard any way they can, whether it’s upside down, back-to-front or sideways!). More importantly, the more attachment points you make into or around the pilchard, the better it will stay on. Consequently, I sew the main hook two or three times (depending on the size of the hook) up along the pilchard’s back, just above the lateral line, with the main hook ending up positioned just back from the gills. Don’t worry too much about the hook being set quite deep in this instance, as it is easily ripped out on the strike – but I do like to have the kirb and point of the hook angling up and away from the pilchard’s back.

The second hook is then slid down until the hook eye reaches the point where the trace disappears into the pilchard. Place your second hook in this position, again remembering to have the kirb of the hook pointing away from the main bulk of the pilchard. Next come the half hitches. The half hitches around the tail take the pressure off the stitches and hook positions, keeping the bait nicely intact after the cast. I usually use two half hitches as this spreads the load better and makes it less likely that the tail will get cut off on the cast. However many half hitches you decide on, make sure that they always progress up the trace towards the main line or you risk the half hitches knotting up on themselves. If small ball sinkers are being used, they should be trapped in place between the eye of the hook and the half hitches.

Singles Club

For those who prefer just single hooks, it is the same procedure as the one above but without the second hook being placed in the rear. Single hook rigs are usually used when the snapper are big, the snags very bad, or a mixture of both. It is also simple to make up and IGFA legal.

The Fixed Double Hook Rig

The fixed double hook rig has a lot going for it but I don’t use it. This is mainly due to a question of time: just like tying baits on with cotton, I would rather forgo the extra hassles involved (in this case having to snood two hooks the correct distance apart from one another) so that my gear is in the water for the maximum time possible. But, there are a couple of major reasons why you should bother: for a start, baiting up is much quicker – simply place one hook through the skull of the pilchard (a very tough area) and impale the trailing hook further down the body. This rig seems to get eaten just as much as the reverse-hooked rig and, when retrieved, the bait is brought in headfirst, often proving attractive to kingfish – a nice bonus. Thirdly, it’s IGFA legal, so can be used for club and world records.

The Pillie Magnum

When there is the possibility that snapper in the vicinity could be large, it usually takes a bigger than usual bait to catch them. This means using either one of our big New Zealand pilchards or multiples of the much smaller Aussie ones. Our monster Kiwi pillies are great. They are so big that they generally deter the smaller snapper from sampling them, leaving them relatively intact for when that Big Boy finally shows. In keeping with this focused fishing effort, traces must be a minimum of 24kg and tough (this means that your old mainline is usually not good enough for this), and the hooks should never be less than a 6/0, with 7/0 and 8/0 hooks being even better.

As these big fish are often found in rugged territory, a single hook rig will snag up less and your hook supplies will last longer. When using just the one hook on a big pillie, a hook of 8/0 to even 10/0 is recommended. If the snapper are unable to get their mouths around these size hooks, they’re not the fish you’re seeking anyway. Again, I favour sewing the hook from the tail to the head and the sinker being trapped between the keeper hook eye and the half hitches. The main hook should end up being positioned deeply in the pillies shoulder. A deep shoulder hook makes the possibility of a snag less likely, as less of the hook is protruding from the bait.

(Although the skull of the pilchard is another good hook anchoring point, it is sometimes the only part of the pilchard that remains after two or three bites from a big snapper. You don’t want your hook left behind).

Pillie Double Trouble

Using two or more standard-sized pilchard works pretty well on the bigger fish, too. In this instance I like to use a 6/0 to 8/0 double hook rig and at least a 24kg nylon trace. This is best done with pillies of a similar size, as they are treated as a single fish, and it’s important that after sewing the hooks up the pilchard’s bodies, that the two tails end up next to each other for the securing half hitches – otherwise they’ll come undone and your bait will fall apart on the cast. There are two differences when rigging up multiple pilchards instead of singles.

For a start, the leading hook should end up being placed through the bony cartilage in front of the pillies eyes, the reasoning being that even if all the rest of the bait is taken, the two or three pilchard skulls left on the hook should still be a tempting morsel. The second is to not worry about trying to get the keeper hook through all the bodies – just burying it deeply into one of them will be fine, but again, this is dependent on the tails being firmly half-hitched.

What I like about multiple pilchard baits is that they are almost self-berleying: there is enough bulk in this type of bait to allow some bits to get bitten or broken off, and this can encourage fish in the vicinity to take what remains more positively.

The Pillie Starfish

This is one of my favourite big snapper baits and it’s very simple. Get a single 7/0 to 8/0 hook and place it across and through the noses of several pilchards. Whether you use three, four or five pilchards will depend on your pilchard supply and the size of the fish you hope to catch, but in all cases the last pilchard should be hooked down through the nose and out between the gills, locking the others on the hook.

Although this bait rig is terrible for casting long distances (as they splay and hold up in the air), they make up for this disadvantage by being irresistible to big fish – including kingfish and sharks as well as lumpy old snapper. I’m not quite sure why it works so well, but possibly the total effect may look like a small school of fish feeding on something as they gently float down, triggering a strong predatory urge. Whatever. All I do know is that the pillie starfish is often taken well before it reaches the bottom, and often by very big snapper.

Pilchards are truly a wonderful bait, but I really hope we don’t go down the same track as the Australians. Over there, the pilchards are given a real hiding by netters as not only are they in big demand as bait, they’re also used in vast quantities to make cat food. This has quickly resulted in many of the closer schools being wiped out and now the offshore schools are under huge pressure.

If we wipe out this basic source of food, not only do we lose the pilchards, we also lose all those fish that rely on them as their primary food source.

Deploying the Baits
In order to cover more area and options (dependent on the size of the boat, the bait supplies and prevailing conditions), two or three rods are positioned out at different depths and distances. The two most important areas are well out past the pool of light cast by the deck and bait lights (set shallow), and the other down beneath the boat, set much deeper.

Whether you set the deep line first or last depends on whether youre in a position to use a downrigger. If you are, you need to follow a couple of basic rules: the first being that it must be set before the float lines (or risk tangling) and the second is to let at least fifty metres of line out in the current before attaching it to the rigger ball and lowering both down to a depth of around 100 metres — or wherever deep schools of bait are showing on the fish finder.

If a downrigger is not a possibility, deploy the float line(s) first instead. Whether you use one or two will mainly depend on the position the boat assumes on the drift, as they must be kept well apart. If only one can be used, it should be set at around 20 to 30 metres down and will usually need about ten ounces of weight to keep it there — you dont want the bait too close to the surface. When lowering the bait, do it at a pace that allows the current to keep the bait away from the rest of the trace and mainline. Too slowly is much better than too quickly — you must not have a tangle and a broadbill on the line at the same time! Measure the amount of line off in arm spans so that you know how deep the bait is being set every time and leave the reel with the lightest of drags and the ratchet on — it wont be the first or last time a bait gets taken on the way down!

Having reached the desired depth, a float is now tied onto the mainline. I find that the best floats are empty two litre plastic milk bottles with an activated light stick inside them. This means that not only is the bait held in position but its location can also be monitored via the light stick. If two float lines are being used, put a different colour light stick in each for positive identification.

As an added bonus, the milk containers pouring handle provide a good place to attach two feet of rotten cotton. This length of cotton is necessary because blue sharks sometimes eat lightstick floats and we dont want the mainline too close to their teeth. The rotten cotton is secured to the mainline with a series of firm half-hitches until it cannot slip. Any slippage under pressure is likely to result in mainline abrasion. Next, let the float drift out about eighty metres. This shallow line gets hit a lot, especially by sharks. Sometimes two float lines can be deployed, with the second being set deeper at around fifty metres. This changes things somewhat, with the deeper line now being set furthest out instead at about one hundred metres, and the shallow one brought in closer to fifty metres. The two float rods must be kept as wide apart as possible to help avoid tangles. Usually one is put up at the bow and the other at the stern. If theres no rod holder forard, leave the rod in the cockpit but place a Roller Troller up near the bow and put the line through it. This is probably the best system as it means that all the rods can stay in front of you for quick and easy access and better control.

The amount of drag needed is a contentious issue. Mostly we tend to place just enough drag to prevent an over-run from a fast strike, then engage the ratchet. If the bait is rather small (squid and mackerel), you may wish to leave the reel in gear with a moderately hard drag and the ratchet on instead, particularly when circle hooks are used. If you dont have a downrigger, the deepest bait is set last. It needs twice as much weight as the shallow rig and is very slowly lowered to around 100 metres, again using arm spans to give a consistent measurement of depth. If the current catches it to give some angle, so much the better, as this will allow the reel to be left in gear if the bait is small. If not, some angle can be gained by attaching the mainline to an outrigger with a lightly set Roller Troller or firmly fixed rubber band. The rubber band must be wound around the mainline at least ten times to avoid damaging slippage.

If neither scenario is viable, for whatever reason, leave the reel in the holder with a light drag and the ratchet on. Once we made the mistake of leaving a hard-drag rod in a vertical holder with the baited line also hanging vertically. We all watched, wide-eyed, as the tip gave a couple of hard bangs and then wrenched down in an impossibly tight upside-down U. Instead of running to grab the outfit, we all ran away with our hands protecting our heads — it was so point loaded, it looked set to explode into a million pieces! Fortunately for the owner, the hook pulled free shortly after and his rod survived. We all learned from that experience.

Watching and Waiting
When fishing for broadbill, there should be someone awake at all times. This rarely happens. No matter how keen the crew is at the start of the expedition, warm beds soon beckon and they quietly disappear from the deck. This can be made worse by adverse sea conditions or improved by steady fishing action.

To encourage people to stay up, it is advisable to only attempt broadbill fishing in the best of sea conditions (no more than 10 knots) and keep a deck light on, preferably a powerful spotlight. This makes the cockpit a more welcoming place and helps attract squid and other baitfish to the vicinity.

The reasons for staying on watch are as follows: i) the gear must be retrieved for inspection at least once every two hours — sooner if the squid are thick and proving to be a problem (they can nibble baits away surprisingly quickly);
ii) In order to watch where the lines are angling so that the rods are always kept clear of one another;
iii) To keep an eye out for broadbill — they sometimes swim into the light, especially when squid are present (sometimes they will be trailing your line!);
iv) so that the boat can be repositioned if it drifts out of the productive zone; v) so that fresh bait can be caught (mostly squid) to replace those that are mangled or of inferior quality (i.e. those that are nibbled, frozen or smelly) and finally;
vi) in order to be at the controls should the boat need to be put into gear to help set the hook. Ideally there should be one person at the boat controls as well as an angler to take the rod. Its also nice to have some company in the middle of the night.

Although a broadbill can strike at any time, the first few hours of dusk and darkness are very productive, as are those prior to dawn — usually from 4am to sunrise. The last period is often neglected due to exhaustion. I urge you to make that extra effort, particularly if the change of tide coincides with the change of light, as the hour and a half either side of the changing tide is also a strong trigger of big fish action!

Remember to treat every biting fish as a broadbill until proven otherwise, as they can be very deceptive. When a Wide Willie takes a bait, the bites can often register just like the bites of a snapper. I particularly remember one beautifully calm evening when we had the close bait attached to the outrigger and the whole rigger was jerking like a monstrous fishing rod as a fish mauled the big squid bait. Eventually the line was pulled from the clip and then left. After a short wait, the bait was retrieved by hand for inspection. On the way up, the angler felt more bite, but thinking it was a shark, kept on going. As the mangled remains of the squid came into our puddle of light, the unmistakable form of a nice broadbill followed close behind, then slowly turned and swam back down. I repeat: treat every strike or bite as a broadbill until proven otherwise. Although hard-set drags mean fish are hooked up immediately (or not, as the case may be), it is still wise to get the boat under way to keep the line tight and the angler in the chair facing the right direction. When fishing light drags, always wait until the boat is moving before placing the reel into gear and attempting to set the hook.

A popular technique used overseas, by those using standard game hooks, is to allow the broadbill to run off eighty to one hundred metres of line before striking. This ensures that the hooks are down deep and that a lot of internal damage is inflicted. Usually this serves to drastically shorten the fight but I cannot bring myself to do this to such a neat fish.

The Fight
Having gone to all the effort of hooking a broadbill, it doesnt get any easier. They are very different to other gamefish in the way they fight, being stubborn and immovable like a tuna one moment and then scorching off and jumping like a marlin the next. These fish are extremely tough and even small specimens give a good account of themselves. Everything possible must be utilised when battling a broadie: make sure that the skipper uses the boats speed and manoeuvrability to the greatest effect; that the fighting chair and harness are as strong and well set up as possible; and that the angler is familiar with quickly changing the reel into high or low speed, as is deemed necessary at the time. N.B. Understand that if you do not have a two-speed facility on your reel, that you are placed at a major disadvantage: sometimes using low gear will be the only way you can move the fish and get any line back on the reel.

Even with all these advantages, it sometimes seems that broadbill will never give up — and then for some inexplicable reason, they suddenly do. When it comes to being gaffed, they should first be hooked in the head or gills as this is the toughest part and provides optimum control, then a second gaff further down the body for added insurance. Even so, Wide Willies will usually retain enough power left to give the boat a jolly good thrashing. Once secured, you have every reason to celebrate, as well as a heap of the most wonderful fish to eat; they taste fantastic, either fresh or smoked.

In Summary
There is no doubt in my mind that broadbill are the toughest fish in the sea to catch, but the fact that these fish appear to be territorial, are found in specific areas, and are being incidentally caught in large numbers by commercial boats using lightstick baits is cause for concern and can only make it harder for the recreational broadie fisher to succeed by the day. We can only hope that common sense prevails and that this world-class fishery is regulated well enough to ensure its long-term future.

The trace should be as long as possible (8 or 9 metres), and made from very thick monofilament — at least 230kg (500lb). Even 270-350kg (700-800lb) is not going overboard as the thickness of the line is less obvious in darkness, although finding suitable crimps can be a problem. Thick mono is less likely to be rejected than wire because it is without the slight electrical charge produced by wire and is not as obviously foreign when chewed on. It is also much safer and easier for the traceman to handle when active fish are being traced boatside.

Some people still prefer to use wire however, even though this much thinner material can cut deeply into the fish and increases the chance of pulled hooks. The rationale behind this being that at night time there are plenty of sharks around and its often good for crew morale to bend the rod on a big fish occasionally. Hooking and playing these sharks does waste possible broadbill opportunities over that time, but it also serves to keep crews awake throughout the night and thats pretty important, too. (Out of the hundred odd people Ive fished for broadbill with, only six have been keen enough to stay up all night. Three of them were skippers).

With this in mind, I often use one and a half metres of 270kg (600lb) wire crimped to a heavy duty ball bearing swivel, which in turn is crimped to seven and a half metres of 230-270kg (500-600lb) mono. This set-up stops sharks from biting the hook off and makes it easier and less hazardous for the traceman to handle. To combat the adverse affects of the wires electrical field, metal feel and tendency to cut broadbill flesh, I usually cover it in electrical tape or Heat Shrink tubing.

The size of hook(s) are determined by the size and type of the bait being used, but all should be as big as practically possible. The wider the gape, the greater the amount of flesh can be held at one time, making it harder for the hook to tear out. It therefore follows that open-gape hooks (points and barbs pointing straight upwards and parallel to the shank), as opposed to closed-gape (such as Mustad 7691 patterns for example), are likely to work better in this situation but they must be fixed to the trace rather than allowed to swing freely. Swinging open-gape hooks (particularly the shorter shanked patterns) generally follow an inferior trajectory to that of a closed-gape when pressure is applied along the line, either causing the point to skid off the harder, flatter surfaces or to dig in and tip the hook over, producing an inefficient angle (to see what I mean, dangle an open-gape hook by the eye between your thumb and forefinger, and with your other hands index finger, push directly downwards on the point. You will notice that the hook is pushed away from the pressure on the point, making it harder for the point to penetrate). However, by firmly fixing open-gape hooks to the trace with tape or Heat Shrink tubing, or by tying it on with a snood, the hook is prevented from tipping forward when the point catches, leading to a much easier, more secure hook-up. Whatever your choice, the hook should always be modified before-hand. This is done by filing away all cutting edges down from the point and barb region until only a nail point is left. This will help prevent the hook from cutting out, especially if electrical tape is also wrapped around the shank and bend of the hook, giving a thicker surface area.

I suspect, however, that tuna circle hooks are the way of the future and the way to go. Already well-proven on a variety of large, powerful gamefish, circle hooks are designed to catch in the tough gristle of the jaw hinge. This position helps stop hooks from ripping out and should the fish end up escaping or being released with the hook still present, they can usually continue to feed without any problem (as opposed to fish that have swallowed a bait rigged on more standard patterns of game hooks, and which are hooked deep down in the stomach or gills as a result. Fish hooked in these areas are much less likely to survive the encounter afterwards). As sharks are also likely to be hooked in the mouth, the short, protective wire trace can be omitted, making the trace more broadbill friendly. Although circle hooks are relatively cheap in comparison to forged game hooks, that doesnt mean that they are not good quality or that they wont take a lot of pressure. At this point I have used both Mustad (model 39960D) and Eagle Claw (EC190C) circle hooks and have yet to straighten either in the largest sizes (16/0 and 17/0 respectively). In fact, I once saw a 500lb nylon trace break rather than the 16/0 circle hook being used fail, facilitated by a particularly powerful deckhand trying to control a very green striped marlin at close quarters.

Somewhere on the trace will be some weight. This keeps the bait at the correct depth, and the deeper the gear is set and the stronger the current, the greater the amount of lead needed. Most times the weights are placed reasonably close to the hook — usually only 1.5 to 2 metres away. On my usual rigs, that means immediately above the wire trace, sitting on top of the connecting ball bearing swivel. Although any sinker with a hole down its middle will do, I prefer long, slender weights such as those found on the bottom of drag and set nets. Being streamlined, they dont have such a bulky silhouette and are less affected by the current. Electrical tape is wrapped around them to keep them in place, otherwise when the bait is being lowered, it can hold up in the current and pull mainline through the sinkers. If the bait is also slowly spiralling, it might easily end up tangling with the mainline. Other fishers place their sinkers on the doubled mainline above the trace. This supposedly gives the bait a more natural presentation and lessens the risk of the weights falling down onto the fish and frightening them off. The only disadvantage of this is that the sinkers can migrate up the mainline when a fish is being fought, so hold them in place on the doubled line with a toothpick. Although I know of some people who make up rigs that have break-away sinkers on them (usually held in place by very light rubber bands), I dont have the money or the lead to waste every time a fish (read shark) runs off with the bait.

If neither of these options appeal, a downrigger can be a very effective tool for presenting the deep-set bait as accurately and effectively as possible, but well deal with this more fully later on.

No rig would not be complete without a lightstick. Although broadbill are taken on unlit baits (especially when the moon phase is big and full) a Cyalume stick will greatly enhance your chances of success. Being a very curious predator at the top of the food chain, broadbill have little to fear (except for mako sharks) and will usually come over to inspect anything unusual, especially if it is also likely to provide them with food. The larger Cyalume sticks give out the most light and are therefore capable of attracting fish from further away, so its advisable to use only the 4 or 6 models.

The most effective light stick colours for broadbill appear to be red then green — according to American commercial longliners (who unfortunately have nearly wiped out their own fishery!). Experiment on the night by chopping and changing colours to see which gets the most action and then make them all that colour. I usually attach the stick, top and bottom, to the wire trace just before the joining swivel. This keeps the rig streamlined and if a shark chews the stick, as they sometimes do, it is on the wire part of the trace not the nylon.

Where to Fish for Broadbill
Broadbill are deep water denizens and consequently are normally encountered well offshore. As is the case with all fish, they are attracted to current affecting structure, so the vast majority are located around canyons, shelf drop-offs, gutters, reefs and pinnacles — especially those located in water over 200 metres deep. These structures serve to alter currents so that planktonic life forms are pushed up from the depths and are fed upon by small bait fish and squid. These in turn feed larger fish — and so on and so on. By looking at a detailed Bathymetric chart, suitable locations will be quickly apparent, the contour lines bunching up wherever depths suddenly change. The greater the number of canyon fingers, pinnacles and drop-offs in the area, the more likely they are to produce fish. By staying within these zones throughout the night, the chance of encountering broadbill, instead of just sharks, remains. This may mean that at some stage you must wind in and cruise back up and start a new drift. By using a GPS it is possible to monitor your progress and position the boat so that good areas are well covered or new locations explored. Remember to include the changing tide directions into the equation as this may enable you to drift back over the productive territory from a different direction later on.

If you have some time before darkness falls, you will increase your chances greatly by looking for obvious tide lines and then for large schools of baitfish in those lines. The tide lines are caused by the meeting of varying water temperatures, the bigger the difference the better, as they act as a natural barrier for all sizes of fish to swim along. As a result, its an excellent place for broadbill to find food and for us to find broadbill.

Although broadbill spend most of their time deep down, they periodically come up nearer the surface to feed, particularly at night. There are widely varying opinions as to whether a full moon or no moon is better for broadbill fishing, but the important part is that both phases tend to be accompanied by big tides, the extra current pushing the baitfish and food around more and encouraging predators to prowl. However, it does seem probable that the days around full moon provide extra light for broadbill to hunt, encouraging them to come up closer to the surface, making them more available to us. On the other hand, darker nights enable artificial light to be more obvious, concentrating bait and squid around the boat in greater numbers and potentially attracting broadbill from further away. I have had the most broadbill action on full moon phases.

Rigging the Baits
Broadbill are not very fussy feeders and will eat most fish or squid baits, particularly if theyre fresh. The method of hooking these baits need not be too fancy as Ive seen good hook-ups achieved on whole fish baits simply hooked through the lips, but prefer to have baits secured a little more firmly than that, especially when the sea is choppy. The most popular baits are squid and small tuna, followed by kahawai and large mackerel. Whole fish baits are normally rigged dead, with their gill covers and mouths sewed shut, and the hooks dacron loop sewed through the front of the lips a couple of times before looping back over the point and barb again. Circle hooks are a sensible option for this rigging as they are unlikely to allow the dacron loop to come back off again in a rise and fall sea. This sort of sea motion, while not the best for those on board, serves to move the bait around in an erratic, enticing manner. As for squid, the hook shank and eye is either sewn and held inside the mantle with rotten cotton, the hook bend and point protruding out of the middle of the tentacles and small stitches holding the mantle and tentacles together, or, if a circle hook is used, the mantle and tentacles are held together by stitches and the circle hook simply placed up near the top of the squids mantle. Some people go a little further, making a 180° two circle-hooks rig, so that one comes out the tentacles cluster and the other from the top of the mantle.

This fish was certainly a New Zealand record and I wanted it. I had stayed attached through the violent runs after the hook-up and was now focusing on the slow lifting process after the tuna sounded. It was just a matter of time. I didn’t voice my concerns to the crew, but they may have not wanted to mention it to me either. I wished that the tuna would head for open water away from the rocks. It didn’t though and slowly we worked closer and closer to the rocks.

If we had been after kingfish, this may well have been the place we would have tried, and now I had a suicidal New Zealand record tuna heading straight for the lions’ den. I stepped up the pressure a fraction by putting my finger on the side of the spool. It was subtle but I knew the tuna would notice. The result was instantaneous, encouraging it to run harder for the rocks. Damn!

As the tuna entered the strike zone the line angle suddenly changed, becoming rapidly shallower as the tuna headed for the surface. This was not good, probably indicating that a kingfish was indeed on its tail. The rod was alive in my hands; I could feel the tail beats of the frightened tuna as it headed for the surface. The writing was on the wall; my New Zealand Record tuna was about to get eaten! The tuna and several kingfish came to the surface together. The rod thumped once as a kingfish hit the 1kg line and broke it. The surface exploded and my 2kg tuna was gone in a flurry of kingfish tails.

Game fishing has many faces, one of which is light tackle fishing. The above introduction is an example of the highs and lows that make this sport the all-consuming passion for some, and yet be disregarded as ‘trick fishing’ by others.

This article deals with the use of line class weights of 1kg up to 4kg line – and don’t think that the tackle mentioned is only for little fish as some of the catches will be many times the breaking strain of the line. There have been some outstanding catches on light tackle, a good number of which were a lot more meritorious than much bigger catches made on heavier gear. Light tackle fishing is available for everyone. There are plenty of species that offer exciting and challenging fishing, and which anglers can try for at any time.

For example, North Island anglers are never far from kahawai. Most anglers have caught kahawai while trying for other species and, in fact, may even perceive them as a nuisance if they are not the target species. In addition to this, surfcasters tend to catch them on their heavy surf rods and boat fishers on their snapper gear, so they are liable to be less than satisfying from a sporting point of view.

Try for the same fish on one or two kilo line though, on a light spinning outfit, and you will be amazed at their fighting ability. A two kilo fish that you would be able to muscle in on heavier gear becomes a tenacious, spectacular and hard fighting adversary. Sounds a bit dramatic you think? Well that probably tells you that you have not experienced the thrill of light tackle fishing. 2kg breaking-strain line is a good starting point if the kahawai sought are averaging around two kilos. Line weight captures are not as easy as they may seem.

Success requires focus, patience, attention, a soft touch and an understanding of the fish you seek. A kahawai, for instance, will probably jump after it is hooked. You will find that they jump more when hooked on light tackle than they do on heavier gear. A trevally will fight increasingly harder as greater pressure is exerted, while a snapper will stay deep for the early part of the fight. A kingfish is likely to head for any nearby structure, and a tuna will take your lure and head away at a great rate of knots when it feels the hook. Knowing these things before you start will help with the outcome of your light tackle encounter.

Equally important is quality gear. Drags must operate smoothly when unloading line – and I mean as smooth as a raindrop running down a window pane. With one and two kilo line, a single stutter of the drag may mean a bust-off.

Line loads don’t need to be huge as there is little future for your quest once a fish has two hundred metres of line in the water. Hooks need to be needle sharp so that they penetrate easily; you won’t be doing any great rod wrenching strikes to set the hook with this gear.

Rods must be soft tipped but still possess enough lifting power to raise the fish at the end of the fight. All rings must be checked regularly for any imperfections that will damage line. The line itself needs to be a reliable, consistent IGFA rated line so that you know exactly what you are fishing with. IGFA line is pre-tested and the rating marked on the spool. Who knows, your next fish on light tackle could be a World Record and then the line rating is all-important.

Shock leaders are mandatory and knots need to be well tied and well tested. The best approach is wind-on leaders of 8 to 10kg as they can be useful during the landing of the fish; once you have overlapping turns on the reel, you can add the extra pressure required to hold a fish nearby until boated by the landing net or gaff. Keep the wind-on leader simple by tying directly to the main line with a Albright or doubled Uni-knot.

There is some merit in using tapered leaders for light tackle fishing, but keep in mind that every knot is another potential weak spot in your rig. If you are fishing in a current, a swivel will need to be incorporated into your rig. Do this by tying up short leaders with a swivel at one end and a hook at the other. Make sure that these are not too long or you may not be able to cast them when you need to.

There will be times when shy fish (trevally in particular) will demand the absence of swivels and heavy leaders. At such times, it may be necessary to tie the hook straight onto the mainline if it is over three kilos, or simply keep the wind-on leader short and light on the one and two kilo gear.

Hooks

Hooks are always a good topic for discussion when light tackle anglers get together. Most think along the same lines and demand the same properties from their hooks. There are basically two ways to go with your hooks. My favoured style of hook is the Gamakatsu Octopus because these are made on a thin gauge wire and easily set, the penetrative qualities helped further by phenomenal sharpness. They are strong hooks and even the smaller sizes, which suit the light tackle fishing, can be relied upon. They are also available in a variety of colours – if you think that is an important feature.

The second line of thought for light tackle fishing is to use circle hooks that are self-setting. In the past I have used the Tainawa and Mustad longline hooks with success, but now use Gamakatsu circle hooks as they are made on much thinner wire and are chemically sharpened for easy setting. They are available only in black.

I well remember an afternoon fishing with Mark Feldman in Mangonui Harbour using circle hooks. We caught an embarrassing number of snapper, trevally and kahawai without striking a single fish. Baits were set and rods dropped in rod holders. The tip bent over, and when line started running from the spool under a reasonable drag your fish was hooked. Neat! (If you cannot resist striking these fish, then you will be sure to pull the hooks away when using circle hooks). Hook sizes are important, as it is all but impossible to set big hooks with the light line.

For 1 and 2 kilo fishing I like to use 1/0 or 2/0 hooks as a maximum. If the bait size or shape allows it, I will go smaller. Hooks of this size are easily set. If I am fishing 3 or 4kg line I will happily use up to 5/0 hooks. (Keep in mind that I am referring to Gamakatsu hooks that are made on thin wire. Some types of hooks may have very thick shanks in the 5/0 size and not be suitable for this style of fishing).

Baits

Baits are really determined by the fish that you are after. For instance, if you want to catch a parore on 1kg line, then you need to use shellfish or weed for bait. Throwing pilchards at them is generally a waste of time. Therefore, think about the species that you are targeting and prepare the best baits you can, in a manner that you believe will be attractive to that fish.

Here are a few thoughts on baits and species; they have all worked well for me.

Kahawai: use half and whole pilchards, strip baits of skipjack tuna or mullet.
Snapper: half and whole pilchards, strips of skipjack tuna or kahawai.
Kingfish: small livebaits and dead pilchards or piper.
Trevally: shellfish, skipjack tuna and pilchards.
Parore: tuatuas, mussels, bread and green weed.
Skipjack tuna: small lures to 60g or anchovies/pilchards in meatball situations.

Knot tying can be tedious with the light line. A good trick is to wet the line before tying. It also pays to get out of the wind if possible. If you are unlucky enough to get a tangle in 1 or 2kg line, don’t bother untangling it. Cut it away and start again, as the line will be damaged and the breaking strain may even be halved. Taking no chances with your line can be the critical difference with light tackle fishing.

Approach this fishing with an open mind. You are going to bust off a few fish while getting the hang of it, and will probably frustrate other anglers if you are fishing from a boat. Make sure that they are aware that you are fishing light line and that they are prepared to keep out of your way when you hook up.

If they are out to fill the fish box, the light line might be better used on another day as they will not want to be chasing your fish around during the bite time. Be prepared for a major learning curve in your fishing skills. If you master the light stuff, anything else is easy.

by Mark Kitteridge

Some recent kingie fishing in the Bay of Plenty served to remind me, yet again, just how effective livebaits can be. And that although kingfish will sometimes eat almost anything that wriggles, they still prefer some species of baitfish more than others — especially if these baits are also in tip-top shape and are a kilo or more in weight.

Strongly wriggling baits attract attention from further away and make more attractive targets, and bigger baits are less likely to be swallowed by smaller, less desirable predators such as kahawai, barracouta and juvenile kings.

Proven baits include yellowtail and slimy (blue) mackerel, koheru, squid, flying fish, pilchards, piper, kahawai, trevally, and, last and least, the humble sprat. However, you will find that kingfish will also take maomao, sweep, tarakihi, snapper, blue cod, flounder and even spotties if you’re in a jam. (Keep in mind that although you’re using these fish as bait, minimum legal lengths still apply.)

In all cases, the livelier the bait you have on the hook the better, so look after potential candidates! This means not touching the baits with your hands when catching them if possible. Instead, run the back of a butter knife up into the bend of the hook so that the hook bend is pointing upwards and the fish is hanging down over the livebait well or container. A few jiggles and the fish will be de-hooked and falls in without contact. Fish that are handled will be a different, more stressed colour, and are more likely to die than their untouched counterparts, especially over the course of multi-day trips.

Whatever bait you end up using, your choice of hook and where it’s placed are the most important aspects. Personally, I prefer to use styles of hooks with reasonably short shanks and wide gapes, such as Gamakatsu ‘Livebait’, Black Magic ‘GZ Livebait’, Mustad ‘Hoodlum’ and ‘Saltwater Livebait’, and Owner ‘Gorilla’ and ‘Offshore’ models. These hooks keep exposed metal to a minimum and enable hook points to protrude well out of the bait’s flesh — if positioned correctly. In most instances there is little need for baits to be hooked anywhere but in — or close to — the head. This makes them reasonably streamlined and faces them into the current so that they can breath properly, as well as helping them to remain in good shape while retrieving — an important consideration if bait supplies are low.

Most slim-faced baits are best hooked through their cartilaginous ‘nose’ immediately in front of the eyes, especially if the current is strong or they are to be slow trolled (but bridle-rigging is even better). If the hook is kirbed, the point and barb should ideally angle upwards and away from the bait’s head when it swims away — a strategy based on the knowledge that the vast majority of whole baitfish are taken head-first, and this also helps to avoid ‘double-hooking’ the bait. Slimy mackerel and pilchards are particularly well suited as they’re so soft fleshed that hooks can rip out easily when placed in their shoulder or back.

It’s also possible to attach yellowtail mackerel and koheru in a similar manner, but unless I’m fishing very deep water or trolling, I prefer to upper-shoulder hook these baits, just up and behind the gill plate. However, the hook must be positioned so that it angles upwards and across the bait diagonally, or straight up and along the upper shoulder towards the head, as this help to avoid double-hooking here, too. And again, keep in mind that the hook kirb should stick out and away from the bait when it swims off, not downwards and into the body. Kahawai and trevally are well-suited to shoulder hooking.

Piper are an exception to the rule. They are a soft fleshed bait and have backbones close to the top of their body, making them prone to ripping off on the strike or being mortally wounded by hooks that are placed too deeply. Unfortunately, they are also prone to going a bit cross-eyed when hooked in the nose, making them less lively and, as a result, not as attractive. In this instance they are better hooked underneath, down towards the tail.

Finally, pay plenty of consideration to hook size. If in doubt, it’s better to under-size the hook than risk over-sizing it, as placement in the bait is more important and can compensate. A hook that’s a little on the small side minimises the damage to the livebait, enabling it to be livelier for longer and, as touched on before, a strongly kicking bait sends out better vibrations and attracts more attention and strikes. If the hook is also hard to see, possible ‘customers’ are more likely to be turned into ‘buyers.

On the other hand, hooks that are larger than necessary slow baits down and can be harder to set home on the strike, but are sometimes utilised by unscrupulous anglers to inflict debilitating internal damage to our green and gold mates. By allowing plenty of time for the bait to be swallowed right down, the angler sets the hook into the intestine or gills instead of the mouth.

This certainly serves to slow kings down, but escapees or released fish have a high mortality rate. I don’t believe this is responsible or acceptable any more.

Selecting the best size hook is determined by the size of baitfish. This sounds simple but unfortunately is something hard to teach via the printed page. As a rough guide only (some hook sizes vary according to brands), you can use the following hook-size list or look at the illustrations I’ve drawn for an idea on relative hook-to-fish ratios.

Kahawai: small (kopopa) 4/0-6/0; medium (1kg) 7/0-8/0; large (1.5 to 2.5kg) 9/0-10/0.

Yellowtail mackerel: tiny (10-15cm) 4/0-5/0; small (15-20cm) 6/0-7/0; medium (20-30cm) 8/0-9/0; large (1.5-2.4kg) 9/0-10/0.

Slimy mackerel: small (10-15cm) 4/0-5/0; medium (15-30cm) 5/0 to 7/0, large (1-1.5kg) 8/0-10/0.

Koheru: small (10-15cm) 4/0-5/0; medium (15-30cm) 5/0-7/0; large (1kg+) 8/0-9/0.

Piper: 4/0-5/0.

Trevally: medium (legal) 6/0-7/0; large (1-2.5kg) 8/0-10/0.

Flying fish: medium (to 20cm) 8/0, large (20-40cm) 9/0-10/0.

Squid: small (to 15cm) 6/0; medium (15-30cm) 7/0 to 8/0; large (30cm+) 9/0 to 10/0.

As well as keeping hooks to a reasonable size, use the lightest trace practical in the circumstances. Just like other forms of fishing, the more natural and subtle your presentation, the more likely it is that more and bigger fish will bite. However, the trace still needs to serve its purpose — there’s no point having plenty of strikes if the fish break off all the time.

Usually it’s a case of compromising, but as an approximate guide, the poundage of the trace should be at least half as heavy again as that of your mainline, with double the poundage (or even more) being necessary if the terrain is rugged and the bait large. If marlin frequent the area, some anglers will use traces up to 400-lb in breaking strain — but they pay for this precaution with fewer kingfish strikes.

All traces should be as long as possible for the circumstances. Long traces allow the bait to have greater freedom of movement and a more natural presentation, both of which help attract and excite predatory fish. This means that 3.5- to 4.5-metre traces should be used whenever possible, especially on free-swimming and balloon/float baits. A sinker rig suits shorter traces of around one metre, as long leaders can tangle up with the mainline on the descent. (Although some anglers knot the trace’s swivel to a section of doubled mainline or to another length of heavier line to help compensate, this produces a major problem. If the line breaks for any reason, the knots prevent the sinkers from falling off, tethering the kingie to a potentially life-threatening amount of weight.)

All swivels used on kingie livebaiting rigs should be ball bearing types. Baits tend to swim in circles and exert enough pressure to bind up standard (‘barrel’) types of swivels so that they won’t spin. This can result in some very ugly messes after a few hours.

When we head out on the water, a plan of attack is always the best option. We all have spots where it’s taken us years to learn the best bait, time, tides etc to catch fish, and we also have spots which have been handed down or around the fishing groups that we hang around in. All of these spots have taken people years of hard work to master.

So how do we go about finding these secret spots? I would have to say that time on the water is the best way, but just an understanding of how current works, what fish feed on, when they feed, how the wind affects their habits etc, is important too. There are millions of different reasons why some spots fish well and some don’t. We may not always even understand why, but as we fish longer in these spots and put in the time, things become clearer. As you become more able to read an area to the point that you can almost predict if it will fish well or not, take note of the structures or sand below, current speeds, times when fish move through the area and why they are doing so. I think we can all sometimes see wicked spots where there’s deep water, current running around a head-land etc, and we put time in on these spots but then catch nothing and pass them by. I have also had spots like this where I know there must be fish, and by sitting there time and time again with different tides, time of day, baits etc, the spot ‘X’ becomes a reality. I have spots now that I only fish fortnightly, but if I’m there at that time for that specific tide, I’ll land fish every time.

First I would start by having reconnaissance trips in the area that you normally fish and only fish new spots. Hopefully the night before you will have had the opportunity to sit down and study the marine chart of the area you are fishing and make a plan of attack for the morning. When doing this, take into consideration the wind and tide to give you a comfortable day’s fishing (it’s no use fishing spots in the wind or wind against tide). Also, with the marine chart, you should have some visual images packed away in the mind, as at some stage you have probably powered past most of the islands and out-crops while heading to other fishing spots, and hopefully by doing that you may have noticed the way other boats were sitting in the area to work out currents.

A good sounder is well worth the money. I am starting to learn this, as although I haven’t come up to play with all the new sounders and chart plotters on the market, I am finding that a good sounder is a must. It does help, and comes in handy when trying to find fish. My sounder gives me depth and an outline of the bottom, with the fish blurred together. I was in the middle of the gulf the other day and turned the sounder on only to find I was sitting in 20 feet of water, and then it started to get deeper as the school of fish moved from below the boat. I would imagine a good sounder would have picked the water depth and showed the ground, and if you could read your sounder properly, even picked what species they were.

What to look for on the water?

1. Fishing pins/rocky outcrops.

Current: I am a big believer that current helps, and places with current will usually produce fish at some stage. If I am fishing a small rock or pin, I will usually only fish the spot with wind and tide running in the same direction, as I don’t like being thrown around when fishing. I will run the sounder over it, or drive around to have a look at the bottom, see which way the current is running and head up-stream when ready to release the anchor. In this situation I prefer to anchor up to one side of the pin/rocky outcrop – preferably the deepest side – or if there is structure running out one way, then over that. Once at anchor I will try and sit there through a whole tide and will berley heavily to see if I can drag any fish in the area into the fishing zone.

Again you may have to fish the spot a few times to find out where the fish feed. Eg snapper – as there may be a kina population on one side, mussels etc, or the bait fish may have an eddy to sit in off to one side out of the current, so this is where the kings should pass by when scoping the area for food.

2. Headland/islands

Current
When fishing headlands/islands, sounder around the intended area you plan on fishing. It may drop straight off to 15-100 feet of water with current peeling past the face, while others may slowly drop off 20-50 feet over an area of 50 meters. Have a look at where the current runs around a point – you may be better to sit in the eddy, or may find that the fish may round the headland at the 30 foot mark – and only the odd fish is hard up against the rocks. These headlands again need practice and time spent on them, as even though it’s deep water with current, or shallow with very litttle, you may find that the fish are only feeding there when the tide is slack. Or the fish may even be sitting down-stream into the bay on the incoming tide so the food is swept straight to them while they sit out of the current.

Time
This will again have to be worked out. Try morning and evenings first at different stages of the tide, as the spot may only fish the last two hours of the out-going tide in the evening, and if you are targeting kings or snapper, don’t forget about the low slack water if it has been a wicked producer of fish over the last year. I feel at this stage that the bait fish are out of the shallows due to lack of water and don’t have current to help their speedy escapes. If you have been watching the fishing show on Sky and Prime sport, big snapper feed on bait fish as well.

Depth
This is a hard one, as I have fishing spots that produce the same size fish, starting from three feet of water to 100 feet of water. I think water depth is one factor that doesn’t matter, as all our fish species can be found in the shallows if the food source is there. I have caught sharks, kings, snapper, rays, trevally etc all in the shallows. With the shallow water, it gives the opportunity to drop your line weights and fish lighter line, thus fishing for big fish species in shallow water on light tackle (can’t really beat it, sometimes these days are better than catching 100 fish). The fish you may hook you would have had to work for, maybe even stalked, and there’s nothing better than seeing your 3-6kg outfit emptying in front of you. It’s what gets the adrenalin running and makes us come back for more.

Food source
Snapper – I try and jump into the water and have a look around if the water depth allows, as this is a good way to find what food is below, like kina, mussels etc. You can’t find better berley than the local food that is in the area, and a bin full of kina berleyed onto where you just gathered them would bring any snapper on the feed. I have found if there is kina, at some stage of the day or night the snapper will be there trying their luck for a feed. There are lots of different things that snapper feed on, like pippy, cockles, tuatua and worm beds. All of these are snapper food, so there’s no reason why they shouldn’t be in there feeding. Who cares that it is only three feet of water? During the cover of night, it’s no different than 30 feet for the fish. You may have to experiment with these spots as the fish may only feed there during summer/winter.

Kingfish
Current with bait fish are the good things to look for. If you are trying to find good producing kingfish spots, it’s either going to be a beat that they swim to get to their food or else it’s where the food is. Kings seem to have circuits that they cruise, and they cruise these circuits at different times of the tide. The other thing with kingfish is that maybe you see them but they don’t want to feed, and this generally means that if you put the time in to your spot, you will find the time that the kingfish will be there and hungry. I’m a big believer that kingfish become almost resident over their stay in certain spots, as they are predator fish and why burn fat when you don’t need to? They don’t have local dairies to call into to get pies. So why swim millions of miles if you don’t need to?

Sharks
Sharks are the most under-rated sport fish in NZ. The sharks I chase are solely landbased due to being able to man-handle the beasts without too much pain for the sharks. If you are just after getting your arms stretched this is it, as the power of a big bronzy powering out to sea is wicked. Man against beast! It just feels good, and then releasing the fish at the end is pure heaven.

People have this idea that sharks do big beats and I tend to agree to a point, but unlike kings and snapper, they are huge fish of 200-300 kilos and if you don’t have to go far to get food, then you won’t. The harbours are your best bet if you want to land sharks from the shore as there are large numbers of them during the summer and the harbours are full of food, so they should be there all tides. I have seen sharks feeding on schools of sprats and catching paddle crabs as they swim in the current. The main entrance to the Raglan harbour is a prime example of this, as there are heaps of sting-rays in the harbour to feed on. During low tide you can walk right down to the channel edge at the entrance of the harbour, throw a bait 20 feet and be fishing 20-30 feet of water at slack water, and the sharks are all just resting there waiting to grade the food on the in-coming tide. I have fished here over and over again, berleying fish within touching range of the beach. If you want to start shark fishing this summer, Raglan should see you hooked up and getting dragged down the beach.

Things to remember if targeting shark
A gaff to hold the head while removing the hook. Try and gaff through the bottom of the mouth and have bolt cutters ready just in case you can’t get the hook out. You can cut the hook, removing the gear ready for release a lot easier with bolt cutters than with your hands. Also remember if you going to kill these fish don’t waste them, and remember the sharks are usually far too large to man-handle back to the car park.

It would be fair to say many people have struggled to come to terms with soft baiting. New tackle and techniques required to get consistent results when our traditional bait fishing is so different requires some commitment to learning about the elements that will make a difference to your success.

Tying braid, putting baits on jig heads or worms hooks, striking and hooking fish is so different to traditional bait fishing but practice will pay dividends. Here are some key things I’ve discovered over several years teaching softbait fishing techniques.

Rod and strike position
Because our traditional bait fishing tackle is so heavy we have tended to fish with the rod tip up and pivoted the reel and rod butt off the hip. The butt was for the most part lower than the rod tip. Even going to lighter 6-8kg tackle we naturally and probably quite rightly carried on this method and played fish from the hip.

If you place your soft bait rod butt on your hip and get someone to pull on the tip you can pull about 1-1.5 kg or thereabouts. (When the rod is bent don’t let them move towards you as it can cause tip loading and possible breakage). Now put that same rod under your armpit (tuck it right up and change your feet and body position to get comfortable, and so that winding is unimpaired) and you’ll find you can exert about 3 to 4 times more pressure. Softbait rods are strong in the base section and very flexible in the tip. Not lifting the rod so high at the tip and being able to exert more pressure over the fish will pay dividends on larger fish and in shallow water or over reef and foul. Fish being released are much greener and more likely to survive.

With traditional bait fishing, striking the fish was a lifting of the rod upwards, generally with it in against the hip. A softbait retrieve generally starts with the rod often level or pointed down at the water and then we tend to lift the rod arcing it back towards our body so that the tip progressively ends up higher above the reel. As we know, trying to set the hook on a tip pressure of 1-1.5 kg may explain why we are not setting the hook more often.

To overcome this problem point the rod at where ever you intuitively feel the jig head or soft bait is. Use the reel handle to wind in line or get motion to the bait (if required) but bring the rod down sooner than you would normally. You are lifting and lowering more often in shorter strokes not necessarily quicker unless the situation requires it. The object is to keep the rod low so that when the take comes you have an almost direct pull from the bail roller or at the least you are hitting the fish on the bottom third of the rod. Have your arm extended but comfortable and pull the rod towards you rather than lifting. If you’re not super strong hold the rod in such a way the butt will come under and against your forearm.

Wrist action is important.
At times your rod tip is high when you get a bite and when a fish hits the lure we instinctively lift and tighten the wrist automatically which in turn means the tip is the main area being applied to setting the hook. As a more effective option, try this technique and keep practicing it till you get proficient (I have nearly lost my outfit a couple of times, that damn multi-tasking). Grip your rod firmly with your palm and opposed by your fingers securely wrapped around the rod grip. With spinning reels you should have two fingers behind the reel stem, and two in front. As you are retrieving, keep your wrist slack. This way when the strike comes the fish will pull the tip down quickly reducing the angle and again you’ll be setting the hook on the bottom third of the rod. I discovered this by accident when looking the other way assisting in landing a fish but oh what a solid hook up. Use it as and when the situation requires. I do not use it all the time and it takes good reactions to bring it into play.

Key differences between braid and mono.
Monofilament can have up to 20% stretch where braid has about 2 % creating a whole new dynamic.

You need to ensure your drag is set for the lineweight you’re using. Braid can be confusing as the stated ‘lineweight’ often doesn’t reflect the actual breaking strain of the line itself. For instance 6lb fireline has been shown to break at up to 7kg. That means you can wind the drags up on your reel more than you might expect. A good reel with a smooth drag is critical if you are going to fish with higher drag settings however as a large fishing hitting and hooking up instantly can bust you off if the drag isn’t in perfect working condition and you’re fishing near the upper limits of the actual breaking strain of the line.

Get a buddy to help you set the drag. Place the rod under your armpit and point the rod at about his or her waist height and get them to use cloth or glove take a few wraps of line and pull line off like a fish running. You will see it is quite easy for them to take line, making you wonder if in fact you can have the drag setting even higher and often you can. With higher settings, even larger fish will struggle to take line and come to the boat much quicker. Remember to use team work when netting fish as they are often quite green with this method. Use suitably heavy hooks. Berkley Nitro 3/0, Jig Star 5/0 most Squidgie Jig heads or equivalent in other brands.

Cast in the direction of the drift.
You should always cast to the direction of drift not necessarily the angle the boat is pointing, unless they are the same. Conditions/depths will mean some adjustments to direction of cast and I normally cast wider for shallower depths with faster drifts. A simple rule of thumb is to cast a couple of metres further than the depth you’re fishing. This will give you a couple of meters of line to wind up and prepare so that you know your soft bait is doing a U, just above the sea floor as the boat passes.

You need to consider sink rates of the line (thicker line sinks more slowly and has more resistance in current than thinner lines). Thicker braids also don’t show the relaxing of the line to the degree the thinner lines do when they hit the bottom and this is especially important when fishing the shallow foul. Yes the bigger diameter lines will do the job but have some downsides as well.

Cast at 45 degrees to the direction of drift. The critical thing here is the 45 degree angle as by the time your bait is near the bottom and getting hit it is roughly in front of you and with your rod down you should be straight with rod and line and get a good solid hook up. If your soft bait is on straight and attached with a Genie clip allowing more action often you don’t need any type of retrieve. If you’re hitting the bottom too soon then adjust your angle of cast accordingly. When you hook a fish, quickly lift the rod under your armpit and with the tighter drag your fish will come in square in front of you or towards the back corner. Avoid trying to hook fish with too steeper line angle as mentioned earlier.

Drop back…
Predator fish will generally attack the tail to immobilize their prey. Their next move is to totally engulf this now inert bait fish. And here’s a potential problem. What we often do on that first bite is give the rod a good jerk/lift which can result in the tail being bitten off. Try and avoid a heafty strike. There are circumstances where certain fish bite the tail off and one option for dealing with that is to just speed up your retrieve. With the tail gone, another lift and wind the bait is far enough away for the striking fish to lose interest. If you have a bite and fail to hook up, let the bait drift back down and often you will get a good solid take. Also having the slack wrist or a softer tension with your rod arm helps eliminate tail loss.

Which baits?
Most softbaits work, though the three main baits I use in no particular order are Gulp, Slam, and Squidgies. There are plenty of others that are just as good. Experience has shown it’s actually the angler and their techniques, the equipment and fishing to the conditions that are probably more important considerations. Bait presentation, size, scent and ‘matching the hatch’ are possibly important contributors on any given day. Most baits are rendered useless if you put them on crooked as they rotate and don’t work properly (you often won’t be aware of the problem as you automatically slow down your wind as you get closer to the boat). Rotating baits can cause line twist and guide wraps on the tip or top two guides. Twisted line can cause problem with casting and line breakages. The gut cavity is the stomach on jerk shads so should be on the bottom.

I use genuine Genie clips from Tackle Tactics or Big Red Tackle (watch out for cheap imitations!) to attach the jighead to the fluorocarbon leader. They are high quality English sprung steel and allow you to make rapid changes to either colour, size or action if things are slow especially with vinyl baits. They allow rapid weight changes if drifting in offshore winds over drop offs that are close to the shoreline. Also unrigging at the end of a session or keeping protein baits juiced up when moving on hot days is a quick and easy option. The metal to metal loop and hook eye means a freer swinging system as opposed to metal to nylon which closes slightly when you pull on the retrieve. It’s simple physics.

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These two closely related species grow to large sizes and are available to anglers right around the country, though they’re nowhere as common as they were formerly.

Commercially and recreationally, hapuku (Polyprion oxygeneios) and bass (Polyprion americanus) are often caught with bluenose (Hyperoglyphe Antarctica), a type of warehou unrelated to the other big boys, but often sold as ‘groper’ and equally good to eat. It, too, grows to a large size and is caught using the same gear and techniques as hapuku/bass.

Hapuku and bass belong to a family of fishes with the common name of wreckfish. Hapuku are commonly called bass in southern parts of the country and the Maori name for bass is moeone, which is still used in places.

All three species occur over deep reefs with bass and bluenose generally found in deeper water than hapuku. However, all three species can be caught at some locations.

Hapuku favour reefs in 80-200m of water, but are caught in much shallower water at times, as well as deeper. In the past they were relatively common inshore, but are now rare. In a few isolated spots it’s still possible to catch them from the shore.

Bass and bluenose are usually found in water over 200m deep and as far down as 500m. Bass become increasingly common in northern waters.

Larger groper and bass are almost always associated with reef structure; smaller fisher may be caught out in the open over mud or sand. Fish found in the open tend to be smaller specimens (‘pups’ or ‘schoolies’ and are usually hapuku. Bass seldom feed in the open, but both hapuku and bass have pelagic juvenile phases with small fish associating with floating objects.

Bluenose also prefer rough ground, but also school in deep water over open ground where they are targeted by trawlers. Bluenose eat a lot of invertebrates, but like hapuku and bass also eat fishes, so they’re easily caught using conventional baits.

All three ‘gropers’ grow to large sizes and all are good eating fresh or frozen. Hapuku can reach 1.8m in length and weigh 80kg or more; bass get even bigger: 2m and 100kg-plus. Average sizes are similar for both at around a metre with the stouter bass weighing heavier for its length. School fish are generally less than 15kg in weight and ‘pups’ under 10kg.

Bluenose are on average smaller – 60-100cm – with a maximum of 1.3m and 50kg.

Hapuku and bass look very alike, but are easy to tell apart when placed side by side. Hapuku are greyer in colour – blue when young – shading abruptly to almost white on the belly. They are generally slighter and more elongated than bass and have a noticeably longer lower jaw, giving them an underslung look.

Bass are more heavily built and have a shorter, more rounded head with a lower jaw which projects only slightly. They tend to be darker brown in colour grading gradually in grey-brown on the belly. Juvenile fish have pale bands or mottling.

Bluenose look quite different and are much more laterally compressed. Their plump bodies are solid and deep with large, blunt heads, large eyes and relatively small mouths compared to hapuku and bass, although large for fish in the warehou family. They’re blue-grey above, shading to grey and silver on the sides and belly. Once caught, the skin exudes a lot of slime.

Food for all three species includes a wide range of crustaceans, invertebrates and fishes, some large. Big groper have large appetites and their capacious mouths can accommodate large prey items, which they engulf by opening their jaws and sucking in the prey.

Little is known about the spawning habits of any of these species, but it is assumed hapuku and bass free-spawn in coastal waters, with bluenose doing the same in deep coastal waters. Seasonal migrations between shallow and deep water is a feature of the lifecycles of all three, thought to be related to spawning activity.

Juvenile groper and bass are sometimes caught over shallow reefs and young fish may well inhabit inshore areas for some years. All three species are slow-growing and long lived, making them vulnerable to overfishing.

Hapuku and bass are part of a five-fish limit with kingfish in most places, of which no more than three may be kingfish. Bluenose are part of a 20-fish finfish limit, except in the southern fishery zone where the bluenose limit is 30.

Best Rigs
Various groper species are most often caught on set-lines (‘groper/hapuku droppers’) or by rod and line fishing using large fish flesh or squid baits.

Livebaits, jigs and large soft plastics also work well, but the tackle and techniques are rather specialised.

Most rod and line anglers fish two or three-hook dropper/ledger rigs with short branching traces tipped with large hooks. Hooks may be of the conventional J-type, or more usually are circle-types with recurving points.

Groper rigs are tied or crimped in heavy monofilament line – 200kg is usual – and the hooks can be as large as 14/0, though smaller hooks are better if average fish size is smaller.

Because most groper fishing is in deep water from a drifting boat, large sinkers are mandatory. Streamlined ‘torpedo’ or ‘bomb styles are best with weights up to kilo required in some places. Attaching the sinker via a short length of light nylon designed to break if the sinker fouls on the bottom can save a lot of frustration and re-rigging.

Commercially-tied rigs, some equipped with luminescent tubing, beads and/or rubber squids, are readily available from most tackle retailers.

These additions are designed to make the bait more attractive down in the dark depths and some anglers go a step further by attaching a light stick or battery powered light to their trace.

Check that the swivels, hooks and knots/crimps are of sufficient quality to handle large, heavy fish before purchasing a pre-tied rig.

Heavy rods and large reels spooled with at least 24kg line are the go when groper fishing. These days, serious anglers use superbraid lines, which allows the use of smaller reels and makes fishing a lot more fun. Bites can be felt, even several hundred metres below the boat, and the struggles of a hooked fish are transmitted all the way to the rod.

Some people believe hapuku/bass are just dead weights on the line; fish with superbraid and you’ll soon learn they are not. Good drags are essential, as are good knots, a gimbal belt and a stand-up harness; 300m is a long way to lift 40 or 50kg of struggling fish.

Unlike hapuku and bass, whose swim bladders inflate as they are drawn towards the surface, incapacitating them, bluenose fight all the way and are tougher in proportion o their size.

Large soft baits and jigs can be deployed on specialised deepwater jigging gear, or on conventional groper tackle, since high-speed retrieves are unnecessary. Jigs and softbaits can be ‘yo-yo-ed’ near the bottom to good effect. ‘Drop-shot’ soft plastic rigs with a large soft bait attached at right angles to the line above the sinker work well..

Best baits:
Almost any fish bait will take hapuku and bass. Live baits – mackerel, blue cod, tarakihi, or any other prey-size species – work very well, often taking larger fish.

Cut baits of tuna, kahawai, barracouta, cod or sea perch are good. Alternatively, use whole mackerel or other small fish as bait, or squid, provided they’re large enough and fresh (avoid pink-coloured squid –fish do, too).

Look for durability in a bait – there’s a lot of winding to check baits.

Make sure the baits are large enough to discourage pickers, but not so large as to impede the rig’s rapid descent. You need to be able to reach the bottom to catch these generally bottom hugging fishing.

Best spots:
Hapuku hotspots are generally well known by local fishers. Any moderately deep to deep reef, preferably with plenty of current, is a good bet, but bear in mind that fish may be present only seasonally. Some inshore reefs also hold fish at certain times and some of these are in surprisingly shallow water. Local knowledge helps.

Acknowledged hotspots include reefs and banks around the Three Kings Islands, White Island and the Ranfurly Banks, but there are thousands of rocks and reefs right around New Zealand that offer good hapuku and bass fishing. Off the west coast the edges of the continental shelf provide near limitless fishing opportunities. Some prospecting with a powerful sounder can bear dividends for the patient angler.

Best times:
Groper are most often targeted nat or around slack water. They favour ares of high current and in many locations, it’s only possible to fish for them over the turn of the tide.

Elsewhere, fishing is possible on any tide, but too much current can make staying in contact with the bottom all but impossible. If the drift is too fast, due to tide, wind or both, the fishing is poor because baits are not spending enough time in the strike zone.

In shallower waters, anchoring may be possible, but boat positioning can be critical to success. Berleying is seldom practiced, but deep berleying can pay dividends in shallow water (100m or less).

This sleek fish has an average size between 40-50cm long, and an average wiehgt of 1 to 2kg. Appropriate tackle is 6-10kg mono or braid is even better as the bites are small. As their tremendous fighting ability has earned them a reputation as a top light tackle game fish, especially on salt-water fly (SWF). They can be found year round and will be enticed by plenty of berley.

Best Rigs.
Kahawai are most often caught on a jig, softbait or trolled lure or fly when they are schooling. A cast spinner will also work well in the same situation. Match the hatch. If they are feeding on small silver baitfish, a silver jig will be deadly for example.

A good berley trail will often bring in Kahawai when you are targetting snapper and they’ll be caught readily on the strayline (Kiwi & Aussie versions), and dropper rigs, also flashers with small cubes of bait

Best Spots.
Kahawai can be caught in most of our inshore waters. They are often found in schools on or near the surface and generally where you see birds diving and feeding, the kahawai will not be far away.

Best Times:
Morning & evening seem best but kahawai can be caught year round and at any time during the day.Soft baits, jigs, flies, spinners and flasher rigs are all very effective. They’ll eat any of our normal cut baits such as pilchards, squid skipjack etc.

Snapper are found consistently around the entire North Island. Further south, they occur mostly around the upper third of the South Island, straying further south in summer.

Snapper vary in habits and growth rates, depending on where they are found. West coast snapper generally grow more quickly and have the potential to attain larger sizes, but fish numbers are relatively low.

On the east coast, fish are more numerous, but grow more slowly. In the Hauraki Gulf a legal 27cm fish may be nine years old; on Auckland’s west coast, a similar fish might be just three or four years of age.

In general, growth is faster in warmer, northern parts of the snapper’s range, but very large fish are often taken at the extremities of distribution, since such large animals are better able to tolerate marginal conditions.

The average size of snapper is around 1-2kg, but may be bigger or smaller in certain areas or in some years. Really big specimens reach 15kg and can put up an impressive fight.

Snapper eat almost any animal matter, including molluscs (shellfish, squid and octopi), crustaceans (crabs, shrimps, barnacles and crayfish), other invertebrates (worms, starfish, sea urchins) and fish. They frequent most bottom types and operate throughout the water column, though most of their time is spent near the sea floor.

Breeding takes place in moderate depths in wide, sheltered bays once the water temperature nudges 18°C. Breeding fish gather in dense aggregations in mid-water.

The Hauraki Gulf, Bay of Islands, Doubtless Bay, Bay of Plenty, Hawke Bay, Taranaki Bight, Tasman and Golden Bays are recognised snapper breeding venues.

Recreational fishers target breeding fish and the ‘schooling season’ is marked in many snapper fishing calendars. Big breeding fish are hungry and aggressive, making them easy to catch, so it’s important not to be greedy.

Within their preferred range, snapper will be found on almost every reef, and in every suitable harbour and channel. They will enter very shallow water, especially at night, and also inhabit reefs and broken foul in 100m of water. They can be taken from the shore or from boats of all sizes.

Best Rigs.
Snapper are aggressive feeders and can be taken on a wide variety of terminal rigs. They even bite trolled lures intended for kahawai and kingfish. The best rigs for snapper are the strayline (Kiwi & Aussie versions),and dropper rigs. Flasher rigs also work well, at anchor but particulary on the drift over sandy areas. Softbaits/soft plastics are proving phenomenally effective on snapper, especially in northern parts of New Zealand – for more about softbait fishing tips and techniques, see our articles on softbaits:

* Getting started..[more]
* Tips & techniques..[more]
* Selecting softbaits..[more]
* Selecting and tying traces..[more]
* Casting and fishing techniques..[more]
* Fishing overhead reels..[more]
* Using braided line..[more]

Also check out the latest news & views in our softbait discussion forum.

Strayline rigs
Strayline rigs are fished in relatively shallow water where little or no weight is required to sink the bait. What weight is used should be free-running on the trace above the hook(s).

Straylined baits are usually cast away from the boat or shore and allowed to sink slowly towards the bottom. Fishing large, straylined baits is the traditional way to catch large snapper, especially in reefy territory.

Dropper and flasher rigs
Dropper and flasher rigs include one or more hooks branching off the main line with a suitable sinker at the bottom. Weight is adjusted to suit water depth, current strength and/or the speed of drift. Sufficient weight is needed to keep the baits near the bottom where snapper usually feed.

Flasher rigs are based on the same principal, but add flashy materials tied to the shanks of the hooks to further entice a fish to bite. They can be fished with or without bait.

Other techniques
Other useful snapper rigs include metal jigs and saltwater flies. Jigs can be fished using conventional tackle and are best bounced up and down just above the bottom from a drifting boat. Flies require specialist flyfishing tackle.

Best Baits.
When they’re feeding snapper will eat almost anything. However best baits include fresh mackerel, fresh kahawai, pilchards, squid, skipjack tuna, mullet, shellfish and crabs.

For big snapper, try live mackerel, live squid – even live kahawai if they’re not too large – fished near the bottom. Soft baits, jigs and flasher rigs are also very effective on snapper.

Best Spots.
Snapper tend to move around during the year and can be found in different areas, depending on the season.
Snapper hotspots include Nelson and the Marlborough Sounds in the South Island and from Hawkes Bay right around the top of the North Island to Taranaki.

Larger fish usually inhabit reefy areas and may remain there all year round.

Large numbers of adult snapper migrate into harbours and estuaries in spring and early summer and will move close inshore to feed aggressively before and after spawning. Pre-spawn fish are in peak condition. Bigger fish tend to characterise the spring run, with fish becoming on average smaller later in the season.

Once summer hits it stride, juvenile fish join the adults inshore and can dominate the catch, especially in sheltered harbours.

Post and pre-spawn fish gorge themselves on shellfish and invertebrates. Worm and shellfish beds around the country host good numbers of hungry fish, which may move around from day to day and tide to tide.

Snapper can be found on the inner Hauraki Gulf worm beds from mid/late October through to December, where they are putting on condition prior to spawning. Use your sounder to locate the schools and fish softbaits, natural baits or jigs.

For general, consistent year-round fishing, find reefy areas with good consistent current and use berley to attract snapper to your bait. Placement of the boat in relation to the structure you are fishing is paramount with wind and tide running in the same direction preferable.

Softbait fishers can enjoy success year round, but the best fishing is when fish are at their most hungry before and after spawning. Softbaits can be used in shallow water over reefs and in harbours, or in deeper water over schooling fish.

Best Times:
Early morning and evening is the best time for snapper, since many fish feed at night and rely on low light for camouflage, especially in shallow water. Larger fish are easily spooked, so silence and careful presentation pay dividends.

Night fishing can be good, especially if there is some moon, but snapper often go off the bite a couple of hours after the sun goes down.

The tide is important, especially in the shallows; in some harbours, productive fishing areas dry out completely at low tide. The effect of the tide varies from place to places with most locations fishing better on one tide or the other (incoming or outgoing).

In general, a tide change usually dictates a change of venue, even if it’s to the other side of the rock, and sometimes a change in technique. The fishing is invariably better when the tide is running strongly.

Too much tide makes it difficult to fish effectively and it’s sometimes better to move out the worst of the tidal run and fish the edges (of a channel, say). Fish seem to prefer these areas, too, perhaps because swimming against a strong tide saps too much energy.